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Gram & Dun is self-assured at the top of the Bread & Butter Concepts triumvirate. The budding Kansas Borough restaurant group has, in less than two years, opened the casual gourmet burger seam BRGR, the more moderately priced farm-to-market café called Urban Flatland and, now, an affordable yet chic gastropub.</p><p>After remodeling the former Baja 600 order, Gram & Dun’s stylish new interior has a vaguely European colour. An angled beamed ceiling and ash-colored plank floor abut to create a grand lodge ambiance. Buff leather banquettes are plush and cozy with a slightly clubby feel. </p><p>Low lighting turns the range of glass windows flanking Ward Parkway into a backdrop for flickering flames that dancing party in the outdoor fire pits. If it weren’t so warm out I might have been persuaded to curl up with an après-ski hot toddy.</p><p>In place of, we order a lovely, soft bottle of J.L. Chave Côtes du Rhone 2009 ($45) and appraisal the menu, which turns out to have more of a southern slant than I had expected. I fixate on the chicken and sausage gumbo, Brunswick stew, blackened shrimp and grits, chicken-fried quail with red eye gravy, shrimp and oyster po’boy, catfish BLT, a pulled pork sandwich with Carolina slaw, sides of whitish grits or collard and mustard greens.</p><p>“I know the chicken and waffles sounds bizarre,” the waiter admits to one of my dining companions, “but it’s been one of our favorite dishes.”</p><p>I was initiated into the cult of chicken and waffles at Lüke, a Franco-German brasserie by name chef John Besh in New Orleans. The Gram & Dun version is accompanied by ramekins of maple syrup and hot crust for dipping. Before I know it the sweet fire of the sauces snaps me back to an afternoon at Husk in Charleston, S.C., considered by many critics to be the outwit new restaurant in the country.</p><p>All the restaurant concepts that partners Alan Gaylin and Glynn and Jean Roberts have launched aim to put on the market modern American food “with a twist.” Chef Bradley Gilmore, who has been the aperture chef for all, hails from North Carolina.</p><p>The cornflake-fried chicken interpretation at Gram & Dun was greaseless white meat, although a bit less daring than at Husk, where only the fattier chicken epidermis is served with drips of honey and hot sauce. Instead of sissy-dipping to bail someone out calories at Gram & Dun, I doused the savory Parmesan and herb waffles on my lamination with the entire contents of the ramekins for a well-soaked, if citified, version of a fervour food classic.</p><p>One night my dining companions declared the amiable tea braised pork shoulder — which had no strongly discernible tea flavor — the most desirable dish at the table. The braising liquid renders rich, dwindle-in-your-mouth meat that pairs beautifully with a tangle of peppery arugula only just dressed in a lemon vinaigrette.</p><p>The corn pudding that accompanied the food was a nice idea, although it was actually more like a dry-side dressing than a creamy pudding.</p><p>The standout on another sundown: the rich braised pork belly served with a Rancho Gordo cassoulet studded with shreds of rabbit eats.</p><p>The entrée portions are quite rich. To construct a lighter refection, choose from an eclectic range of pub-ier appetizers. I immediately noticed three preparations of steamed mussels, the most strange steamed in Belgian ale with leeks, pears and blue cheese. As intriguing as it sounded, the flavour of the blue cheese seemed to fight with the ale and created a sour edge.</p><p>The French onion dumpling appetizer is a quick-witted riff from the kitchen in which classic French onion soup is deconstructed on toothpicks: eats-filled Asian dumplings, melted Gruyere cheese are topped with a cube of brioche. The appetizer is served in a reduction cheekiness and is surprisingly delicious. Another delectable bite is one of my favorites this winter: Asian Pig Wings, cooked to mahogany mould in a soy sauce glaze and served with a fiery sambal.</p><p>The Jackson Salad, a grilled ticker of romaine served with hearts of palm and artichoke hearts, offered a gratifying smoky flavor. Trendy offerings included tasty middle of nowhere boar and bison meatballs served in a mustard glaze with a bit of sautéed spinach for color, and a playful, shaved Brussels sprouts salad with Manchego, walnuts and cranberries.</p><p>Sad to relate, the dessert menu had unsophisticated, one-note offerings, which is strange since the desserts were outstanding on my visit to Urban Table. Heavy on the peanut and caramel flavors, one room-mate dubbed the offerings “TGIF-style.”</p><p>On both nights I dined at Gram & Dun, the waiters made a valued plug for the Jar of Budino (that’s Italian for pudding) served in a plump apothecary jar. But the butterscotch-flavored pudding was one dimensional, and slightly grainy. The Butter Popcorn Ice Cream Sundae sounded inexactly intriguing but really wasn’t that different from the Gram & Dun Bar, which looks and tastes like the Smidgen Debbie Nutty Bars my mom used to pack in my lunch when I was a kid. I’d like something less exquisite and fruity — a cobbler maybe?</p><p>Nevertheless, Gram & Dun is a welcome above moreover to the dining scene.</p><p>You’ll enjoy an evening of fun food with sporadic but courteous service in a stylish yet comfortable space. And it’s a weighty value, with average entrée prices ringing in at less than $20.
Source: Kansas City Star