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Pork, ginger, and shy away from egg congee is satisfying, traditional, and perhaps slightly scary for breakfast. The preserved dodge egg (a black jelly surrounding a murky green yolk) contributes a surprisingly exquisite flavor. Huang doesn’t tell you what to do if your congee starts to puzzle, which it will, but just add water and stir like crazy.
Huang’s barely dishes are uniformly crowd-pleasing. There’s an easy-to-love vegetable buoyancy roll recipe that goes together in a flash and will win you the world’s-most-popular-mom awarding if you can tolerate the deep-frying mess. If you like oshitashi, the Japanese sesame spinach dish, you will accept its influence in yellow bean sesame spinach. This one differs only in the use of yellow bean paste, a soy upshot that lends an earthy note.
I have always loved the dry, pressed tofu known as “tofu gan,’’ its well-ordered texture shown to great advantage in a salad with cool celery and the gentle, rice-vinegar, sweet-sesame dressing; it’s a crisply appealing last-minute dish and a greeting balance for richer foods.
Source: Boston Globe